
Episode #93
The Ultimate Guide to Climbing Injury Rehab and Prevention with Paul Houghoughi
Download the FREE Physiotutors App : https://physiotutors.app Get 3 months free of WriteUpp's Practice Management Software. Visit: https://writeupp.com/physiotutors for more Summary In this episode, physiotherapist Paul Houghhoughi, known as the climbing physio, shares his extensive expertise on climbing injuries, rehabilitation, and injury prevention. We explore common injuries, assessment techniques, rehab strategies, and the evolving landscape of climbing physiotherapy. Guest Paul is one of the leading physiotherapists in the climbing world and currently serves as the official physiotherapist for the Great Britain Climbing Team. He has worked with climbers from recreational athletes all the way to Olympic and World Cup competitors, combining over 25 years of climbing experience with extensive expertise in injury rehabilitation and performance. Chapters 00:00:00 - Introduction to Paul Houghoughi, The Climbing Physio 00:01:30 - How Paul became a climbing physio and worked with elite climbers 00:03:29 - Biggest myths in climbing rehab and injury prevention 00:06:04 - Common injuries in recreational vs elite climbers 00:08:43 - Overuse injuries commonly seen in elite climbers 00:10:03 - Is climbing really a finger sport? 00:10:49 - How climbing injuries and rehab have changed over the last 10 years 00:12:19 - Assessing pulley injuries and differentiating them from tenosynovitis 00:17:22 - Sponsored segment: WriteUpp 00:18:55 - Should climbers splint after a pulley rupture? 00:21:20 - Differentiating A2 pulley pain from other hand structures 00:24:29 - Biggest mistakes clinicians make when treating climbers 00:27:51 - Chronic pulley injuries and graded rehabilitation examples 00:31:32 - How to decide when to progress pulley rehab 00:32:37 - Sponsored segment: Physiotutors courses 00:33:37 - When imaging helps or confuses finger injury management 00:37:19 - The role of the hangboard in rehab and finger strengthening 00:39:53 - Building long-term finger health and climbing resilience 00:44:50 - Advice for beginner climbers who want to improve without injury 00:47:00 - Sponsored segment: Physiotutors membership 00:48:08 - Climbing load, rest, and long-term progress 00:50:48 - Paul's digital edge device and finger force testing 00:53:49 - What is overhyped or misunderstood in climbing training? 00:56:50 - What climbing rehab and performance still need to understand 00:58:11 - Why physios should experience climbing themselves 00:59:41 - Final clinical tips for physios working with climbers 01:00:40 - Where to find Paul online 01:01:10 - Outro and Physiotutors app mention Bonus Material Download the referenced transcript including PubMed Links and a high-resolution infographic on this episode as part of your Physiotutors membership on the Physiotutors App. Download the Free App now Follow our Podcast on: Spotify | Apple Podcasts






